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Old April 17th, 2014, 06:57 PM   #1
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Chain adjustment

Hi

Has anyone had any trouble/issues with adjusting the chain or any helpful tips i.e. do i need to move the exhaust

thanks

Last edited by Vadric; April 17th, 2014 at 09:02 PM.
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Old April 18th, 2014, 02:47 AM   #2
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Depends if you can get a socket on to loosen the wheel nut without moving the exhaust. I can't.
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Old April 23rd, 2014, 10:04 PM   #3
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I have been advise that I can undo the 2 screws holding the rear mudguard and then I should be able to get a ring spanner but have to wait till I get back from Perth to have a go
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Old May 21st, 2014, 08:40 AM   #4
EAS
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I Ride: 2015 Caponord, 2006 V-strom 650
Chain adjustment

I used a 1 and 1\4 inch socket and a braker bar without removing anything. I believe it is actually a 32mm bolt so you should be able to get an open end or box end wrench on the nut. Good Luck
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Old May 21st, 2014, 03:50 PM   #5
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a 32 or a 34 and use a socket, otherwise you risk to dammage the bolt and after a while your bolt wil become to "round"
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Old February 27th, 2015, 05:09 PM   #6
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I Ride: 14 caponord touring
Using an extension for socket wrench I had no problem. 32 mm socket
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Old March 11th, 2015, 04:55 AM   #7
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From: Cheslyn Hay
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The standard Caponord exhaust can be located in two positions on the rear bracket.
The standard height for when panniers are fitted or a more up swept position for better aesthetics.

With the exhaust in the normal position you can't access the axle nut as the exhaust is in the way. It is a simple task to remove the exhaust or even just relocate it to the higher position by slackening the bolts on the collector pipe.

When you undo the axle bolt make sure you use a good quality hexagonal 32mm socket and not a 12 pointed socket as a hexagonal socket gives a better grip on the nut.

The nut is not very long so it is very easy for the socket to slip and take the corners off the nut.

Although I have only done 4,000 miles I am about to replace the chain (with a gold x-ring) and sprockets as I am feed up with trying to keep the chain rust free.
Unfortunately Aprilia seems to have used a very poor quality chain (which may be why is needs constant tensioning) which rusts at the slightest sign of water or road salt.

I am also taking the opportunity to change the gearing slightly (dropping the front sprocket by 1 tooth)

I am also changing the chain adjuster and axle nut to stainless steels to improve their corrosion resilience as I do ride the bike in the winter months.

Desperado
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Old March 19th, 2015, 11:25 AM   #8
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Had new tyres put on the other day and took the opportunity then of adjusting the chain. Still awkward, but manageable
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Old March 25th, 2015, 03:05 AM   #9
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From: Brisbane Australia
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I Ride: Caponord 1200 touring (but I kept my CBR1100XX - to good to part with)
Clever idea for chain adjustment

Hi all, I was reading a post in 'the other Caponord Forum' and one clever punter wrote that he simply put the rear axel in from the silencer side so that the nut was on the chain side.

I won't be doing this as I'm certain it will jinx me but it is an example of thinking outside the square!

I put my silencer up on the high mark as soon as I got home, then set about checking the wheel alignment - axle nut was tight but no match for extended lever and flat sided hex socket. 35mm slack is about perfect. Chains like to run loose rather than too-tight so don't worry if it is a little bit over 35mm. The swing arm alignment marks are pretty good as they agree with my string-line check. Nice to have a dead straight frame!

Ps I'll grease both axle's and all wheel bearings at the first tyre change.
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Old March 25th, 2015, 04:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrisbaNord View Post
Hi all, I was reading a post in 'the other Caponord Forum' and one clever punter wrote that he simply put the rear axel in from the silencer side so that the nut was on the chain side.
Now that is a cleaver idea!
I will look into doing that next time I have the wheel out.

Desperado
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Old March 27th, 2015, 02:59 AM   #11
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From: Brisbane Australia
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I Ride: Caponord 1200 touring (but I kept my CBR1100XX - to good to part with)
Hey desperado, make sure you have a good look at the mounting hardware - I think you will have to swap the adjuster slides over to the opposite sides as the axle head side does not turn.

The only comment I've heard on this is that if the nut ever comes loose (?) then the axle may work out of the swing arm fast vs the traditional set up with the nut on the other side to the chain drive, where you may have a few more seconds to pull up!

I've never had the nut come loose cause I do them up properly tight - though a racing wire or split pin might give confidence if concerned. Cheers
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Old April 9th, 2015, 11:09 PM   #12
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From: South of York, UK
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I Ride: Caponord 1200, Harley FHLXi, Triumph Tiger Cub, Fantic 200 Trials x 2, Fantic 303 & 201 Trials
Adjusted my chain last night and after reading some of the posts on here I thought it was going to be a nightmare.

Happily I discovered that my Halfords Pro socket set does include a 32mm socket.
I also discovered that it fit on under the silencer in the down position with the extension bar on - no problem.
Loosened nut, adjusted the chain side then the other side then adjusted it again because it was too tight then tightened up the nut as tight as I could.

The whole thing took me about 10 minutes and 3 of that was getting the bike on my bench and lifting it up!

After attempting a belt adjustment on a 2006 Street Glide Harley this was child's play!
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Old July 21st, 2017, 06:44 PM   #13
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From: Jay
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Chain Adjustment fix

Reversing the axle is the ticket. Couldn't locate any decent 32mm spanners here in Hooterville that would clear the can with nut on the right side, no matter if can set high or low. Now the nut is right there to grab. All the bits fit nicely with the reversal. Also greased axle in the swap. Did this about 1000km back. Chain is run-in now and seems to be happy.
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